Greece

Our

Big

Fat

Greek

Vacation

August 8, 2004

It's hard to believe that we are finally here. We have talked about this trip for years, and now it is reality. Here we are at Logan Airport, International Terminal. Let's update you as to who we are. Besides yours truly (Bob and Andy), our traveling companions are Olympia Frazier, a co-worker of Andy's, who was born and raised in Greece. She is bringing her three children, James (16), Daniel (11), and Katharine (6). She is also escorting her niece, Phaidra (14).

(Click on picture to enlarge)

We'll be leaving at 6:30 pm for a seven hour flight to Zurich on Swiss Air. Then, it's on to Athens, a flight which lasts three hours. Our feet should be firmly planted on Greek soil at 1:25 pm local time, Monday afternoon. Our body time will be 6:30 am, Monday morning. Needless to say, we will not be sending any pictures of us as we land in Athens. You'll just have to imagine what we look like after 12 hours of flying.

August 9, 2004

We slept. Actually, the whole travel experience was not really that bad. In Boston, the presence of Olympic athletes was already apparent. Olympia, who is not what you would call shy, struck up a conversation with a woman in the ladies room who is an alternate in the archer competition. This woman's boyfriend is also an archer in the Olympics and is expected to take the gold. While waiting for our flight, we shared the lobby with Team USA hockey who were traveling to Prague for an exhibition game. Some of them can be seem in the background of our group photo above. Katharine befriended them all and even beat them at video games. The flight to Zurich was uneventful. During our brief layover in Zurich, we waited for our plane with the entire Swiss Olympic team. They were all well over six feet tall and blond. We called them Hans, Hans, Hans and Hans. They traveled with us to Athens, taking up seats all over the plane. On the plane to Athens, Olympia (not being shy again!) struck up a conversation with Jamie Nieto, a Team USA Olympian in the High Jump. He was a little taller than me.

At the airport, we were greeted by Yianni, Olympia's brother-in-law, and Sylvia, Olympia's cousin. They got us promptly to Yianni's home, where we were treated to a feast of lamb; tabuli with fresh tomato, basil and olive oil; eggplant and feta with garlic; and feta cheese pie. What a treat. Here we were reunited with Sylvia, Olympia's sister, and Sylvia and Yianni's two boys, Stavros and Konstandinos. After the feast, we all took a little nap then regrouped at 9pm to go to a local restaurant for feast number two. Wow. This food was unbelievable. Just a simple Greek salad was mouthwatering. You've never had feta cheese like this, so fresh and tasty. We had so much to eat, and they kept bringing out more dishes. Here, we got to meet cousin Sylvia's two daughters, Dimitra and Ioanna, and her husband, Kostas. The meal ended around midnight and we all went to bed.

Katharine with Team USA hockey Swiss Olympian Another Swiss Olympian Bob with Jamie Nieto

Greek Salad-Yum Sylvia (Yianni in background) Cousin Sylvia with her daughters Olympia with Ioanna

Olympia with Katharine Phaidra, James and Daniel waiting for dinner

August 10, 2004

A very slow start to this day. We slept until 11am (4am our body time). It's now after 1pm and we haven't accomplished anything. Our first attempt at getting a taxi was a disaster. We were given Sylvia's street address (Xenofontos Exce) which we were to give to the cab driver. Unfortunately, the cab driver asked for the town as there are at least four communities in the area with that street. So now we are waiting for Cousin Sylvia to pick us up. We are getting a map today! Here, time is very fluid (if you get our drift).

Rescued!!!! Cousin Sylvia is on our list for sainthood (along with her two daughters). Cousin Sylvia drives a Puegeot, and while it looks like only two people can sit in it comfortably, Andy fits very well in the back seat with Dimitra and Ioanna. These kids are great! We sang disco tunes together and they knew more words to the song "Its Just an Illusion" than we did!

Even shopping in Greece is a treat! In the early afternoon, the entire crew went exploring in Glyfada, where Sylvia lives (too bad we didn't know that this morning!). While shopping we learned the dark, gothic nature of Olympia (now known to all of us as "Slick B****"[for those who need a hint, it rhymes with 'witch']; the name comes from her "favorite" store).

Olympia at Slick B**** a business card from Olympia's favorite store

Parking in Greece is an experience. So are the cars! We heard a rumor that you get one of these when you purchase a Mercedes. (Sort of like a dingy when you purchase a yacht.)

If you can't find a space, just make one!

In the evening, Andy and Bob headed off on their own to Athens. We visited the Acropolis, and we were properly in awe. It was amazing and humbling. We even had a chance to dine at the base of the Parthenon.

Up close details of front columns Entrance wall details

Andy at sunset, view of Athens

Getting back from Athens to Glyfada was another story. We took the subway to the Tram. When we were told to get off, we were dumped at a stop that could only be described as being left in the middle of the South East Expressway, with no phone or hope of getting a cab. It was now after midnight and we had to get up at 4:45 am to catch our ferry to Mykonos. Fortunately (after a long walk) we found a hotel and were able, after some persuasion, to have the front desk call us a cab. When we finally arrived at our temporary residence, cousin Sylvia was anxiously awaiting our arrival. What a Saint!!!!! It was so nice to see a friendly face.

August 11, 2004, (Happy 14th Anniversary, Bob & Andy)

We were up at 4:40am (9:40pm body time - yes, we still haven't fully adjust, thank you) to get ready for our trip to Islands. Thanks to Cousin Sylvia, we had a cab awaiting us at 5.45am to get us to the ferry.

All we can say is "WOW". The trip was spectacular, with views of several islands on the way to Mykonos. Andy slept most of the way, nursing a very sore throat, that is now clearing up, but turning into a head cold. Bob merely stood by in awe, watching the amazing sights.

We are entitling this segment, "Heaven and Hell" as we have experienced both today. Getting to the hotel was, to put it mildly, HELL. After the ferry dumped us at the New Port (because of high tide....WHAT?????) we were abandoned in a dirt parking lot with no phones or means to get to our hotel. It was extremely hot and dusty. Without getting into too much detail, we borrowed a cell phone, called the front desk of our hotel, but they were unable to assist us. So we waited and waited and waited for a cab. Finally, a stranger in a toy car offered us a lift for fifteen euros. We would have paid one hundred! Andy was told to squeeze (and we do mean squeeze) into the only seat with the very large driver who already filled the entire available space all by himself. Bob had the "luxury" of sitting with the luggage on the open bed and hanging on for dear life. The next three miles are ones Andy will never forget. Now, he is not ready to pick out a china pattern, but let's just say that he and the driver had a bonding experience. Bob was surprised that they didn't emerge as one entity. We did fine going down hill, but up hill was another story. People on mopeds were whizzing by us at breakneck speeds! At one point, Bob thought that he should hop out and push. Maybe we shouldn't have packed the extra suntan lotion. It really weighed us down.

Heaven. Mykonos is simply beautiful. All views are breathtaking. There are stark contrasts, though. The view from our balcony is a panoramic ocean scene that also includes a multi-level dirt parking lot. We are surrounded by water, yet we are in desert setting. But we are not complaining! Quite the opposite. We are in heaven-on-earth. We relaxed on our deck with cocktails and took in the beauty. We went swimming and lounged in the sun for awhile. Then it was off to the Internet Cafe to post yesterday's installment. We shopped, had a few more cocktails back at the hotel while the sun put on a spectacular show setting into the Aegean Sea, and then went off to dinner.

Our deck, complete with now empty cocktails.

We dined on the water, with waves breaking only a few feet away. Our two unexpected dinner companions made up for our missing our "daughters" back home.

(same restaurant during daytime)

Mykonos is a maze of pedestrian-only alleys filled with shops and tourists. We are amazed at how clean everything is. We walked all over and found a little bar where we settled in for the rest of the evening. The bartender Giles is French and his partner Demitri is from Greece. Giles kept us thoroughly entertained and cocktailed. He introduced us to shots of Ursus, a vodka and sloe berry liqueur.

Giles Demitri

All in all, we had a lot more heaven then hell. It was a very memorable anniversary.

August 12, 2004

Sunrise and another beautiful morning. What will this day bring?

We decided to plan an excursion to the beach, after all we're in a country known world wide for it's beaches, so it only made sense to indulge our passion and head for the sand and sun. Well Mykonos has loads of choices. We were told there are beaches for every kind of taste. We decided on a place called "Super Paradise" for a number of reasons. First and foremost friends suggested it's the hip place to see and be seen, so why not try it out. Plus, the name has both "Super" and "Paradise" in it, so how can we go wrong. Of course the hotel was no help, so how do we get there? We discovered a small bus station in the center of town that advertised trips to "Platys Yialos" for .90 euros. That's the ticket - or so we thought - and immediately purchased a round trip fare.

OK...have you ever seen the movie "The Jewel of the Nile"? If you have, do you remember the part when Kathleen Turner travels to Columbia to find her missing sister, and she has to get on a bus to take her to the Amazon? Well, she gets on this bus that's loaded with every kind of human, animal and beast. It's hot, she's obviously miserable, and completely disheveled. This kind of describes our trip to the beach today. In defense of the Mykonos transit system (one bus), the animals and beasts were actually outside grazing in the fields, but the road was narrow and anything but straight. It was certainly crowded, and the lack of deodorant hung heavy in the air. The bus dropped us off at a beach called "Paradise". Here we boarded a boat to "Super Paradise" which we discovered was another beach in a nearby cove. Do you remember the Marriel Boat Lift in 1980? Bob and Andy climbed on board a small fishing vessel with as many other human bodies that could possibly fit for a 15 minute cruise...a 15 minute cruise.

But before any of you think this dampened our spirits, think twice. Super Paradise - which we were told, is accessible only by boat - is probably the most beautiful beach we have ever seen. Bob said he felt the water was surprisingly cold for the Aegean, but Andy thought it to be quite refreshing and warmer than anything New England could ever offer. Here are some snapshots.

After the return trip...just as horrendous...we returned to the hotel to freshen up and do a little shopping before dinner. Of course, no evening plans would be complete in Mykonos without taking time out for yet another sunset.

Awaiting Sunset

We dined at Dynasty - a Thai/Chinese restaurant we found the night before, and it was delicious, to say the least!

We have all these pictures to share with you to show you the beauty of Mykonos. So we're putting them here.

Paraportiani Church

Andy's head cold is still with him, but much better. Andy had one bad night's sleep yesterday and Bob slept poorly this past night (can you spell 'MSG'), but together we're managing just fine in the most beautiful place in the world...so don't feel bad for us (we're sure you don't). Tomorrow is an early day. We are planning on more beach time, but will take in the uninhabited island of Delos for a brief excursion in the morning beforehand.

_{August 13, 2004}

We got up later than planned but made a quick breakfast at the hotel and headed to the dock to catch our 10:00am boat to Delos. Delos is an archeological national park. The city was founded in the 7th century B.C. It was invaded several times and was finally deserted around 69 B.C. Because of the arid climate, the stone houses, shops and plazas have survived the test of time. The island is legendarily know as the birthplace of the god Apollo. From a distance it didn't look like much but after taking a guided tour, we were very impressed with this ancient civilization. The ruins are some of the best preserved in the world. The interior of some homes even had plaster/stucco still in place as well as paint on the walls and complete mosaic tile floor! We were most impressed with the temple to the goddess Isis (an Egyptian goddess) as well as the view from the highest point on the island. Simply breathtaking (in more ways than one, after the climb)!

Top of the Island Greek Style Courtyard

Stucco made to look like marble Temple to Isis

Mosaic tile floor We really did climb to the top

Today after our return, we discovered another way to "Super Paradise". This time, the hotel actually helped us to get a cab and we were able to get to the beach by land...no more boat lifts!!!!

The "direct" route from our hotel to "Super Paradise" was the most winding maze of disjointed roads which ended in a 60 degree slope, literally dropping us off into "Super Paradise". This is why the bus couldn't bring us directly to this beach. We also learned that the road configurations were actually planned as a defense against invading pirates (and current tourists).

During these past few days, we learned and observed that Mykonos is frequented by numerous Italians during the July/August vacation season. That would account for why we've been hearing more Italian than Greek. Local merchants are surprised to find out we're American. They keep telling us the number of American tourists have dropped considerably. Perhaps in this day and age with the ever constant terrorists threat, this would seem to be the case...but who knows. We feel completely safe and although we miss our home, we are nonetheless ever grateful to be here - especially at this time.

Of course another spectacular sunset - this time from our hotel balcony. The air was so clear that you could see the sun disappear behind an island that we didn't even know was there.

Tonight we dined at the "Magic Garden" restaurant. It's connected to but not part of Gilles bar. We were greeted very affectionately and given a ring side seat to the small portable television which was wheeled into the restaurant so that the staff and patrons could watch the opening ceremonies of the 2004 Athens Olympics - LIVE, we might add! Granted, it would have been memorable to actually attend the opening ceremonies, but we had such a GREAT time with Kostas and Nikos and the rest of the staff. We toasted to Greece upon being served our first drinks which moved Kostas so very much. We were treated to sample many fine liquors and also had dessert on the house. The opening ceremonies were spectacular. We especially enjoyed the fireworks display. So many experts (ie: American press) have speculated whether these games would ever get off on schedule. Many Greeks from all walks of life told us that as part of the culture, Greeks tend to start off slowly, gradually, but in time prove to get the job done exceptionally well - especially - under pressure. They are deservedly proud of what they have accomplished! We guess the world's first democracy has a thing or two to teach us.

Magic Garden entrance

We left the restaurant close to two in the morning. We were amazed to find the streets to be so much more crowed than at any other time. EVERYONE was out and about as if it were noon. We felt as if they all wanted to see and be seen! We went to bed after a night cap. Andy had two rounds of Ouzo. This is a potent Greek liquor. It should have knocked him out. The "experts" (the bartenders and Bob) are amazed it didn't. It must be one of those "French vs. Greek" things!

August 14, 2004

Up this morning to breakfast around 8:30am. Andy went to the laundry while Bob worked on the computer (getting these message out to you). We packed our meager belongings and left the hotel close to noon. We were able to leave our bags behind while we went to the Internet cafe to post our update. We overlooked the bus stop square and actually saw another form of transport that we didn't try. Maybe next time.

We then went to the laundry to pick up our clothes and headed back to the hotel to say goodbye to our balcony, witness to so many beautiful sunsets. We will always remember our Calypso room on Mykonos!

As all things Greek, the ferry was on Greek time and didn't show up until an hour and a half after scheduled which of course meant our arrival to Santorini would be delayed. The weather today is so hot. We mean HOT! No breeze. No "dry" heat. Just plain miserable. Even the locals were commenting on the lack of wind. Any movement became an effort. A simple walk produced so much perspiration, you just could be comfortable. Air conditioning is all but non-existent on Mykonos. This is another contrast. Our previous two days were hot, but not oppressive as there was an ever present breeze, certainly not as oppressive as this. We can't wait to get on our air-conditioned ferry to Santorini!

We boarded the high-speed ferry the "Flyingcat 4". This trip would take three and a half hours and bring us to Paros, Naxos, and Ios before dropping us off at Santorini.

We arrived at 6:40pm. Guess what...NO TAXI's!!!!!! You'd think we'd learn our lesson. The hotel was unable to help...what else is new...so we were very aggressive and flagged down a cab in the best New York style you'd ever want to witness. (All those trips to NYC, we had to learn something.)

Forget the Superman ride at Six-Flags; you haven't lived until you have passed a slow moving truck on a hairpin turn going close to 45 MPH on a steep cliff road approximately 400 feet above sea level. We know because we experienced this today...welcome to Santorini! Sorry no pictures...Bob was too white knuckled to snap any shots of this moment.

Santorini is quite different from Mykonos. It is built on the top of steep cliffs that drop into the Aegean Sea. We learned from the travel guide that it is really a volcano that became extinct thousands of years ago. The volcano imploded into itself leaving Santorini. From the air you can actually see the ring of islands that made up the volcano. Most of the residential areas and the hotels are built into the side of cliffs, with the bottom floor being several levels down from the top, layered like steps. Our hotel "Irini Villa's" is quite lovely. We love our view. It wasn't easy to find, though. The other stark contrast from Mykonos is that the weather here is so beautiful, with a cool fog blowing up the cliff walls. We are so grateful that the air is moving again!

We managed to get to dinner by 10:00pm. There was a line to into Skaros Restaurant, however, we were accommodated quickly. We found the worst wine of our trip, but the food was great.

August 15, 2004

Up at nine-ish, and went to the "Blue Note", a quaint little outdoor restaurant at the top of the hill from our hotel, with yet another gorgeous view. We found it yesterday while scoping out a good spot for sunset.

Sunset last night was kind of "fogged out" but it created a cool effect to the dancing sun, keeping one guessing if indeed it had set or not.

After breakfast we took in some more of the view and came back to the hotel to pack a bag for a trip to the "Pool Bar". We discovered this place last night as well. We were told it is part of the "Phenix" [sic] hotel. Our hotel doesn't offer a pool or beach side location so we thought it best to find a convenient spot where we could go to relax and get the dirt on what beaches might be of interest to us for a beach excursion tomorrow. This place fit the bill. It has a small kitty corner bar, a pool with built in hot tub (like we need that here) and plenty of lounge chairs and tables. Best of all, they made great drinks. It was quiet and intimate, just the place to hang out for the afternoon.

We left around five-ish, and Bob was kind enough to go to the local market and pick up some brie and crackers to snack on before dinner. We worked on the website and watched a little of the Olympics on TV. By the way, the Olympics are on the TV here every time we turn it on. We don't know if they are broadcasting 24/7 since we can't understand what they are saying, but they seem to be re-broadcasting all events that Greek teams/athletes are participating in.

Getting back to this beautiful place. It is truly touched by the hand of God. Andy feels with the exception of Cabo San Lucas at the tip of the Baja peninsula in Mexico, this is simply the most beautiful place in the world! Every corner, every road, every walkway and every door, holds another view that is totally unexpected and unbelievable. There are NO words to adequately describe how beautiful this island is. You'll just have to take a look and see for yourselves. Better yet, you have to come here to experience it for yourselves!

We took the 25 minute walk into Fira, the main town, to seek adventure and mischief. Our first stop was the Internet Cafe for a needed download but were told we couldn't hook our laptop up to their system. (Andy swears the previous Systems Director at the Parole Board used to work at this very cafe.) Dismayed, but resolved to press on, we sought out two other Cafe's who responded similarly. We vowed to follow up in the morning with the manager, but were assured our efforts would be futile. So...we shopped, witnessed the spectacular fireworks for the15th of August and staked out a spot for dinner. (Does anybody know what is the significance of August 15th? We didn't quite understand the reason for the fireworks, but then again, who needs a reason?) We found a "Traditional Greek Restaurant" that accepted only "Traditional Greek Money". We thought it funny they took Euro's. No Dracmas or VISA. We again we had "dinner companions". It seems there is a cat population explosion here on the islands, with restaurants being targeted as the primary housing areas. Although our dinners were more than OK, Andy was dismayed to find out his "Sea Platter" was really just a plate of fried Sardines with a few fried-in-the-shell shrimp (?????) fried calamari, and a lovely fish egg soufflé. Julia Child would be so proud! Thank God our "dinner companions" had no aversion to fried sardines!

We walked back up to the hotel...this time uphill...ugh...and worked on the website a little more before crashing.

August 16, 2004

A rat walked under Bob's sandal as we made our way back down to Fira this morning. Yikes! That was unpleasant. No one was injured, just a little frayed around the edges - especially the rat. Well, we were going to take the bus but decided to take the walk instead. You see, we really had no choice as the bus was on "Greek time". We figured that out when after 20 minutes past the scheduled arrival time, the bus still hadn't arrived. Our hazardous walk ended at Kastro's Cafeteria. We had a pleasant breakfast and were spoiled with yet another incredible view. As we dined a herd of burros passed by heading down the steep cliff to the port - we assumed to carry paying tourists up to their respective hotels. A form of transportation the both of us could do without, but might work for some. Then came another herd, and another and another, and...well you get the drift. It was quaint at first, but worn a little thin (and smelly) over breakfast.

Another go round with the Internet Cafe floundered - as expected - so sorry no updates till Athens!

OK...here we go again. In order to get to the beach, we've got to take a bus. So we get to the station and kind of figure out for ourselves where we've got to go. The guys in the office all seemed to be pretty involved with their argument rather answer the questions of the helpless American tourists, so we wait, and wait, and wait, and finally a bus - not the one we had in mind - arrives. Desperate we hop on. OK...this is very different from Mykonos. We're actually comfortable. It's a pleasant ride. When we get to the coast, we are told we can only access the beach by boat. This is unexpected but we're OK with this too so...we'll give it a go. We can't believe we didn't sink. Enough said!

Well we had a choice of three beaches this "cruise" would bring us to: White Beach, Red Beach and Black Beach. We've been warned that Santorini is really not a beach island. We've been warned that the beaches on Santorini are somewhat rocky. But come on, how bad could it really be? These beaches have distinct colors based on the soil and rocks from the geological implosion.

Black Beach Red Beach Now, picture this full of people

When we got the first stop, Andy wanted off! (This leisurely trip was beginning to consume our entire day. It was now after 1:00pm.) The beach was very rocky, little sand at all. There was also seaweed everywhere. Andy settled for a table at a family run cafe. Bob found a tolerable location and got some sun. The water here was very warm. Bob hated to leave. We salvaged what we could as this was our last beach day.

We, of course, had to reverse all this fun to get back to Fira. Oh Joy! But this time, we also added another bus ride from Fira to our hotel. This bus ride, only 10 minutes long, was so crowded that people had to exit the bus just so that we could disembark. We are getting to know a lot of people very intimately, whether we like it or not.

After such a "fun" day, we settled for the quiet of our hotel room. The sunset this evening was the most spectacular that we have seen. We tried the Blue Note again, this time for dinner and had a night cap at Pool Bar, where Bob even managed to take a midnight swim.

Favorite Waiter at the Blue Note

August 17, 2004

Back to Athens today. We'll be happy to see Olympia's family again as we have missed them these past few days. We spent a leisurely morning packing up and getting to the airport. The flight was uneventful, which is a good thing. We made it back to Auntie Demitria's house and then over to Sylvia's to catch up with the gang. We spent a (much needed) quiet evening together, ordering take-out. Cousin Sylvia even made an appearance, brightening up the evenings festivities.

August 18, 2004

Today, we were up early so that we could catch the 8:15am ferry for a one day cruise to three local islands. In order for everyone to get to the ferry, we had to have two cabs. Olympia, Katharine, Phadra and Daniel went in one cab. The other cab picked up James first then drove over to where we were staying to pick us up. Shortly after leaving, both Andy and Bob had a bad feeling about the direction the cab was taking. We assumed he knew where he was going. Never, Never, NEVER assume anything. After driving for 45 minutes, we arrived at the airport. Too bad we weren't flying anywhere today. We were supposed to be going to Piraues Port, not the Airport. Piraues was in the opposite direction and we were running out of time to catch our boat. The cabbie did what any cabbie would do. He got us there with time to spare. He did this by traveling at speeds of up to 180 kph. (Check out the conversion of that on your car's odometer.) It's quite fast, we can assure you.

Our cruise brought us to three islands (ie: tourist traps). They were each beautiful. We went to Poros and Hydra, and Aegina. It took up all day. Between island stops, Andy played cards with the kids while Bob snapped shots of the local beauty. There was also live entertainment. Olympia hoopah-ed, Katharine joined the band, and most of the gang danced at one point or other. Bob even heard a rumor that some tourist dancing with Olympia threw her over his head, but Bob did not witness this. It is the thing that legends are made of.

Find the tourist Our ferry for the day

Olympia with her friend, Tina

As the day was a long one, Andy and Bob separated from the rest of the gang and headed "home". At 9:30pm, we found a lovely "fast food" restaurant, complete with a "dinner companion" darting from table to table catching scraps of food. Let's just say that fast food in Greece doesn't even begin to compare to anything America has to offer. It was delicious!

We stayed in and watched a DVD before falling fast asleep. Another end to another perfect Greek day.

August 19, 2004

Olympia told us to show up at Sylvia's house by 10:00am. We are now really good with the "taxi experience" as we know our way around Gylfada much better than when we first arrived. Bob's excellent sense of direction doesn't hurt either. When we showed up not everybody was complete awake, so we put on a pot of American coffee and got some delicious apple turnovers from "La Merise" a bakery near Auntie Demitria's house and feasted while waiting for everyone to get ready for the day.

Phaidra could not be convinced to get out of bed. Once Sylvia, Olympia, Bob, Andy and Katharine announced they were leaving for a trip to the local Greek style flea market - she was up and out the door! We all wished we could look that "together" in no time flat. Ah youth!

We walked and bargain-hunted in the hot Greek sun for what seemed like hours. We were in part, protected from the inferno by a canopy of sheets strewn across one vendor's cubicle to another, creating a semi-enclosed area. No matter what they tried however there really was no escaping the sun. It was also humid but who's to complain! We're "suffering" under the clear Greek sky having the vacation of a lifetime with some of our closest companions and good friends. Life is good and we are grateful!

Bob and Andy then had to leave the group to find an internet connection. (See how faithful we are? Carrying this laptop - virtually everywhere - so that we can remain connected to home, family and friends...blah...blah...blah...blah...blah.) After completing that task, we explored the shops and walkways around Auntie Demitria's house and stopped at a beautifully decorated bakery and ice cream parlor where we treated ourselves to some mighty fine samplings. We had fun conversing with the owners. Between our very little Greek and their very little English we stumbled all over each other until they discovered we were from Massachusetts which they easily recognized as the land of Michael and Olympia Dukakis. It's evident that name still carries some weight around here!

Andy in front of Billie's, our internet salvation

Satisfied, we returned to Auntie's house, did some laundry, and watched a DVD while getting ready to meet the gang to go into Athens for our first excursion to the Olympics. We're both so excited to see the woman's all-round gymnastics competition and medal ceremony. Uncle Yianni drove most of us to the "T" (metro) station while James, Dan, Bob and Andy split a taxi.

The metro (identified from here on end as the "T"...you can take the boys out of Boston...) is brand new. It was built especially for these games and is a welcome addition to this vast city's transportation system. A two hour ride from the Athens airport to Gylfada now only takes minutes due to the improvements in transport! While under construction Greece's National Archeological Department uncovered many buried treasures which they have put on display throughout the T.

Our first stop was the Acropolis stop. Although Bob and Andy have already been here, Olympia and the kids hadn't so it was a good opportunity to re-visit these glorious ruins. We were impressed these kids really had an appreciation for this place and were fascinated by every nook and cranny.

Our next stop was the square. Located directly below the Acropolis, this is a hodgepodge of markets, shops, restaurants, stands and cafes congested with throngs of people from what appeared to be every corner of the world. Today, probably because of the Olympics, it truly is a crossroads of the world. Olympia wanted Solvaki on a stick, as a matter of fact she wanted everybody to sample this national Greek delicacy, but they are so popular at this one spot that they had run out for the day. We all ordered gyros and fries. We ate on the fly, but so was everyone else.

Back onto the T to the stadium.

We can't say enough about the impressive job the Greek people have done to bring on and host these games. This one venue was so large it was hosting two events at the same time. We are awed by this structure!

Awaiting Sylvia and Kostas

We met cousin Sylvia and her husband Kostas at the stadium and settled in our seats. We did have a scare before hand when Katharine lost her ticket. Fortunately, Olympia was able convince a manager this was the act of 6 year old and not some "plot" to smuggle in a dangerous terrorist.

The program was spectacular...and of course Carly Patterson made the experience so much more memorable by her incredible win!

Carly finding out she won

Oh, before we forget to ask did anybody get to see us on TV?

We've seen and experienced some pretty awesome sights so far on this big fat Greek vacation, but we are hard pressed to believe there will be another event more thrilling than the experience of this competition and medal ceremony.

The Flame James with his god-mother, Sylvia

The conclusion of this evenings festivities brought about the separation of our gang, as most were tired and wanted some shut-eye. Bob and Andy however opted to explore a little of the Athens nightlife...and why not. After all, we are in a truly international city and not having had a night out in Athens yet we decided to give it a go! When we finally got home after 3:00am we were completely exhausted and had no trouble falling asleep. What a GREAT day!!

August 20, 2004

We were up surprisingly early. We spent some time putting together yesterday's update, then headed over to Sylvia's house. We took a trip to the travel agent (we'll tell you about that later) then to Hondos center, a large department store. We were only supposed to be there for one hour, but that must have been Greek time, because it took a lot longer than planned. We also needed to get to the bank to exchange dollars for euros, but if you think banker's hours are bad in America, here they close at 2pm! We finally found one bank that was open and did our transaction.

We separated from the group so that we could get in some nap time before heading to the table tennis tournament. (We are still recovering from last night.) Bob is especially excited about seeing table tennis. He says that it will probably compare to his experience watching paint dry. We don't think he'll be able to get to sleep! More later.

We left in plenty of time to get to the arena for tonight's excitement. When we arrived at the appropriate T stop, we were informed that we had gone one stop too far and must backtrack. Too bad we weren't going by the official Olympic site map. Oh, wait....we were. Just another little bit of help from the trusty Olympic organizers. Once at the correct T stop, we discovered that we had to hop a bus to get to the Olympic venue. Actually, they meant to tell us that we had to hop a bus to get to another bus to get to the Olympic venue. And this bus takes a route past the Orion constellation (or so it seems). Needless to say, we did not leave in plenty of time to the arena.

When we arrived, the opening volley has already been delivered. Shucks...we missed all the excitement. But we settled into our seats and watch China compete with China (i.e. Hong Kong and Taiwan).

a very small table China (in red) vs. Taiwan...China won

There is little enthusiasm from the crowd, except for one large section of blue and yellow colored fans. We are not kidding you. These fans have painted their bodies blue and yellow. The less daring are wearing the colors of - you guessed it - that nation with the biggest P I N G P O N G following - Sweden! Several fans sported Viking caps complete with golden braids of hair. By this time, Andy and Bob are just as confused as most of you reading this. Here we are, watching Korea play Japan, and the Swedish contingent keeps getting larger, louder and more loaded. What, is going on?

We got swept up in the excitement - really - this time! Little did we know that the last team to compete was Sweden vs. Germany.

the big matchup

It was quite the rivalry. (In table tennis, the first player to get eleven points wins that round, and there are seven rounds. The first player to win four rounds take the match.) There are a lot of individual points during each round, and as each side got a point, their respective crowd went wild, and we do mean WILD. It was absolutely the most energizing thing we have ever witnessed. Fortunately (for the stadium), Sweden won. The Swedish contingent went absolutely crazy here and on the T back to Athens center. To think, this was just the quarter-finals. Can you imagine what the place will be like for the finals?

We shopped, dined and bar hopped in Athens for a couple of hours. As we left the city via cab, we passed Swedish fans still celebrating the quarter-finals victory.

August 21, 2004

Another glorious, sunny Greek morning at Auntie Demetria's home. With the balcony doors open we sipped coffee and nibbled on leftover apple turnovers. By 10am we hooked up by phone with Olympia and planned our day. First we'll have breakfast at Sylvia's, where the crew will break up for the rest of the day. Olympia is planning a girls afternoon and night out while we head off to the internet cafe, back to Auntie's where we'll shower, and get on the T to attend Men's Trampoline. We'll follow this up with dinner (who knows where) and call it an early night as Bob heads home (very early) on Sunday morning.

The folks at the bakery's have really come to know us. We feel sad we'll be leaving them and their delicious concoctions so very soon.

Sugar Treats

When we got to Sylvia's for breakfast we discovered they've packed a little box of goodies into our order. We gave the box to Sylvia as another thank you for all her kindness and in turn she was kind enough to share them with the crew. Sylvia's home health aid (Mrs. Dora) has also prepared a wonderful homemade carrot cake! It is out of this world!

Mrs. Dora and the carrot cake from heaven

Between all these contributions this morning as well as a bowl of freshly picked figs we all ate to our fill. Uncle Yianni had made some delicious Greek coffee which Olympia and Andy partook and enjoyed in very little demitasses.

Breakfast with Yianni and Sylvia Card playing, also

After Bob said his goodbyes, we headed back to Billie's Internet for yesterday's posting and headed on over to Auntie's and then to the stadium.

Men's Trampoline was held in the same stadium where we watched Carly win her gold on the 19th. This time we got to the stadium with plenty of time to spare. The afternoon has grown increasingly warm. Compounded with the humidity it was probably the hottest day yet. We got a chance to walk the grounds and see the Village.

Hot day in the sun

Security blimps hovering overhead

Hanging out with the Swedes We think they're from Brazil!

After grabbing a bite to eat we headed over to the Merchandise Store and loaded up on Olympic souvenirs for ourselves, family and friends. What a crowd. We actually lost each other for awhile. The Greeks are making lots of money at this store, you can be assured.

Off to Trampoline. What descriptions can we give to adequately inform you all of how thrilling this event is? Some of the words that come to mind are; dangerous, precise movement, timing, acrobatic daring, jumping into unbelievable heights in the air, courage, and stamina. These athletes are to be admired. We have an appreciation for this sport more now than ever. We're sure it won't get the recognition it deserves (was it even televised?). Our recommendation to you is if you have a chance to see it go without hesitation! You will leave impressed guaranteed.

This was a medal round, so we watched the fifteen athletes who made it this far submit to two rounds of qualifying compulsory maneuvers. The top eight athletes advance to the final round where they must complete a certain number of twists and turns while keeping in perfect form. It is so easy to get off track and two of the eight land outside the trampoline. No one was hurt, though. The top three scores take the metals. It was simply fascinating.

Flag Raising

This heat has taken the best of us today. We fell asleep on the T ride home, and barely had enough energy to pack. Andy has to pack too because he's leaving Auntie's to spend the rest of his time with Olympia and the rest of the crew at Sylvia's house.

We finally got that chore out of the way and so it is off to dinner.

Bob found this spot while he was picking up some household items the other day. It is an outdoor, candle-lit, garden restaurant, with soothing traditional Greek music played live by a couple of guys with classical and Greek guitars. What a stroke of luck. This is a fitting send off for Bob's last meal here in this beautiful country. We let the waiter choose our meal for us and we are not disappointed. It was delicious. After dinner we were treated to shots of Raki which tasted like a sweet whiskey. It was very strong so we liked it!

Back to Auntie's. Watched a DVD and were put to sleep safe and secure for another night!

August 22, 2004 (our separate travels)

Bob's Story - I left Auntie's house at 4:30am. My awaiting taxi gets me to the airport (yes, I did want to go to the airport this time) in plenty of time. I breeze through check-in and security with no difficulties. My flight is delayed by 45 minutes, and this cuts into the two hour lay over in Zurich. I sleep through most of this two hour flight, but awaken to view the Swiss Alps - breath-taking.

By the time I get from terminal E (where I arrive) to terminal A (where my eight hour flight to Boston departs) the plane is already loading. The flight is uneventful and I relax to three different movies, getting plenty of sleep, read a little and partake of the complimentary cocktails. All in all, a pleasant experience with Swiss Air.

Customs in Boston was anti-climactic. I had to turn in my declaration form, was given a warm greeting by the customs agent and sent on my way. Our niece, Melanie, along with a friend, greets me and gets me back to Randolph safe and sound. The girls, Pekoe, Penny and Ginger, give me a warm greeting. The clock reads 2pm, but my body says 9pm. I turn in for a much needed sleep.

Andy's story - Bob left at 4:30am. I hated to see him go, but I had no problem getting back to sleep. I'll miss him, but I'll be back shortly too.

When I awoke the temperature had dropped to a somewhat comfortable setting. The sun is still very hot and bright but doesn't seem as harsh as yesterday. Hopefully it will stay this way for the rest of the day.

There is no water at Auntie's this morning. I'm assuming it has been shut off for maintenance as it was for a part of the morning yesterday. We noticed men working in the street yesterday, so I guess they've not yet finished. Hopefully it will come back on soon so I can shower and get myself over to Sylvia's.

Well the water came on shortly before Uncle Yianni came to pick me up. I've yet to shower and the temp is already higher than it was yesterday. It is not yet noon. This is so much more than a scorcher it is indescribable! Oh well, all's well that ends well with the water anyway! Our thanks to Auntie Demitria and cousin Sylvia for allowing us to stay in the condo Auntie calls home!

After I shower (big praises for little comforts) Sylvia, Olympia, Katharine and I prepare lunch while the rest of the crew goes bowling for the afternoon. Peace and quiet! I think a good time was had by all.

When the kids come back Olympia decides to take us all to the track - not for betting - but for a little go-cart action. These "roadsters" are comprised mainly of plastic and lawn mower parts, but they can move! Out of six teams, Dan comes in first, after passing Katharine and me at least eight times around the track! Phaidra followed - a close second - with James, Konstantinos and Stravros holding up third, fourth, and fifth. Katharine and I were last. Even with her encouragement in our two seater, I have to admit, the going was tough! The go-cart actually needed a little more maneuvering than I expected. I had to coordinate just the right pressure on both the gas and brake, and even the wheel! The kids of course appeared to have no trouble (or fear) in their maneuvers rounding corners at full throttle. It was a memorable experience. They are definitely prepared to take on the streets of Athens. Everyone here it seems, must learn to drive at one of these race tracks before taking the experience to the actual streets.

Tonight we plan on meeting Tina in Athens at 8:30pm for dinner as it's too hot to go out right now. I didn't think it would be possible to be so hot and humid. Even Greeks are remarking on this unusually unbearable heat wave.

We just found out the marathon event has closed all roads and we can't get to Athens. So we won't see Tina. Perhaps she and cousin Sylvia will visit tomorrow night. Instead, Sylvia brings us to a small seaside restaurant for dinner. We are seated right on the water - just like Mykonos - and enjoy a fine sampling of the freshest seafood I've ever had!

Upon our return I sit down to watch a DVD with the boys and the girls retired to Sylvia's bedroom for some packing, sewing and TV watching of their own. A quiet end to a somewhat uneventful day...but I wouldn't have traded it for the world!

August 23, 2004

Woke up in strange surroundings and realized that I was at Sylvia's house...not Auntie's...OK that's cool. Everyone was still asleep so this was my opportunity to steal a shower and some bathroom time. Let's me just say all ten of us are very "cozy" here and the understanding is every man, woman, and child for themselves when one of the bathrooms are free!

Sylvia's level has Greek flag

After my shower, Olympia and Uncle Yianni begin to putter around. Slowly, ever so slowly the house begins to come alive. I went down to the corner bakery with Phaidra and Katharine to get some Greek coffee cake and yummy treats so that we could begin our day on a sweet start. I showed James how to make his first pot of coffee. It turned out pretty good.

The plan for this day was to separate into different groups as the boys wanted to go to the local field to play some ball, while the girls wanted to go shopping...what else? Uncle Yianni and I decided to go to the square to run some errands (mostly for me) and to ride around taking in the sights I might have missed while in Gylfada. The post office was an experience. As I need to mail my last few postcards the stop was mandatory. I'll just leave you with the idea that the visa signs on the front of the door is just a suggestion to the postal consumer and not an actual policy as an acceptance of payment for services rendered. After picking us some other items, we headed home and by this time were joined by Tina who came to pay a visit after leaving the office "sick". That was a nice surprise especially since we didn't get to see her last night.

It was a very lazy day which was a treat for all of us though after being on the go for so long.

Olympia, James and I then walked Kyia Dara (Sylvia's home health aid) home, and stopped at the bakery (yes...AGAIN) and got some baklava for tonight's dessert. I'm going to save the middle pieces for Julie Ching at the Parole Board. I'm sure she'll be very pleased!

Walnuts Fig Olives

Christina, Sylvia's massage therapist also paid us a visit and treated both Sylvia and Olympia to a relaxing massage. They've just now finished and seem to be very mellow right now.

We are ordering take out tonight and expect a fun-filled visit from cousin Sylvia.

Uncle Yianni asks whether he might be able to add a few words here.

"The accuration of all the above consist the view of a decent and innocent American citizen. The reality does not differ much of what the writers of this story have seen. The point is that when you visit a foreign country with history and culture different from America then you need to know the culture and the language, so you could really feel that people everywhere function by the same emotions. Thus to verify of what I am saying YOU HAVE TO COME BACK AND STAY LONGER."

Thanks Uncle Yianni! That's advise I'm sure both Bob and I will follow. I don't know when, but I do know we'll be back!

Dinner as planned was take-out. Olympia finally got her Slouvaki on a stick. I thought it hardly gourmet but mouth wateringly delicious and well worth recommending. As a matter of fact we were so ravenous we ordered another round from the same place. We all talked about our favorite part of this big fat Greek vacation. I don't think one event was missed or left out by the group.

After dinner cousin Sylvia stopped by as promised. She had just come up after the 3 hour drive from the village. It was good to see her one more time and to thank her and her mom once again for all their hospitality. We took many "last embrace" pictures and managed to get to bed by 12:30am. We have to be up by 5:00am and out by 6:00am. Another close to another slow, lazy day. Very relaxing indeed.

August 24, 2004

We are leaving Greece. We expected to spend yet another week here, but circumstances in life - as we all know - change, especially when traveling with such a big group. I'd rather not get into the details, and although we are sad our trip is coming to an end, we are happy to be going home again. The kids miss their friends, and hangouts, and also need sometime to get ready before school begins after Labor Day. Even though I have the opportunity to stay, I too decided to go along with the rest of the crew. We've been together since August 8th and this trip to Greece really wouldn't be the same without them here. Sylvia has been very down as she is sorry to see her American family leaving so soon.

I'm in charge of the alarm clock. I get up at 4:30am to shave and shower and have my coffee before the mad dash for bathrooms begin. By 5:00am Uncle Yianni, and Olympia are up, making their own coffee and heading to the showers. The kids are slowly resembling living human beings. Phaidra looks great...how does she do it?...but we can't say the same for James and Dan. Katharine is zombie-esque.

The last minute packing is underway and suitcases begin to be brought down to the curb.

The cabs arrive in darkness and last second hugs and kisses are exchanged. Katharine - still zombie-esque - hugs and kisses the cab driver good-bye.

Our ride to the airport is uneventful. We breakfast at the terminal and manage to get some last minuet shopping in. Our Lufthansa flight leaves on time and we arrive in Munich, Germany as planned. Upon stepping off the plane, we are struck with a sweet cool breeze, our first in the past two weeks. Phaidra even remarks that she is happy to see rain clouds once again.

We are separated in pairs on our trans-Atlantic flight, but manage to stroll back and forth and check out how each group is doing. We land in Boston and are met by Bill (Olympia's husband), Bob, Debbie and Amara (Phaidra's mother and sister). We part as we say our good-byes.

The sweet cool air hits me as we stroll out of the terminal. I feel very welcomed!

It's good to be home again.

Bob and Andy want to thank the Frazier, Tsampas, and Atlamazoglou families for all their hospitality in the past few weeks and for embracing us and including us in this very special trip. Without their acceptance of us in their families during these past few week and throughout the past 18 years, we certainly would never have been able to have this truly awesome experience! We are forever grateful for their love and support of our family.

Efharisto tout nous amies!

Thank you (Greek) to all of our friends (French)

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